Wednesday, October 1, 2025

Iceland - 8 - Sky

11-15 August,  24 August - 4 September, 2025

The sky in Iceland is a world unto itself - clouds or stars or aurora.

28 August
Clouds and crepuscular rays over Myvatn in north Iceland. (Also below.)


Sunset over Myvatn.

We were fortunate to see the aurora borealis twice while we were in Iceland.

29 August, Myvatn


3 September, Patreksfjöður




Iceland - 7 - Animals - Wild & Domestic

11-15 August,  24 August - 4 September, 2025

Wild Creatures

We started our tour in Iceland at the time when most of the birds are beginning their annual migration to more southernly climes. By the time we left in early September, the vast majority of the birds had left.

11 August
There were still quite a few puffins on the cliffs at Dyrhólaey. I didn't get a good close-up because my camera with the good telephoto lens had a dead battery.

Puffins can be pretty comical in flight. Whether they're coming in for a landing or hurling themselves off the side of a cliff, they just don't look like they were made for flight.

We saw an arctic fox or two (or three) in Greenland, but in Iceland we saw them at the Arctic Fox Centre, a research center and museum in Súðavik in the West Fjords. There's a wealth of information here about arctic foxes here.

1 September
I never did understand some of the exhibits - why is an arctic fox on the table in the midst of a tea set?

Some of the exhibits were disturbing, if accurate. This fox had "Naked Fox Syndrome", an infectious disease that causes hair loss and swollen joints, and is only found in Iceland.

We saw seals at several beaches around Iceland. Two were particularly noted for almost always having seals present.

1 September
Seals basking at the appropriately named Seal Lookout on Skötufjöður in the West Fjords.

4 September
The best place to see seals was on the beach at Ytri Tunga on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. At first, I thought these seals were just rocks offshore, but a closer look revealed them to be alive.

More seals just off the beach.

A closer view of these two seals.

29 August
We went on a whale watching tour in Húsavik. We got to watch a humpback whale go for three dives, taking 8 to 11 breaths before each dive.

We also had a rare view of a basking shark.

To go out on the open whale watching boat, we had to wear cumbersome, but essential, survival suits.


Domestic Animals

Iceland is full of sheep, noted for its horses, and has plenty of dogs and cats.

26 August
No matter where you are in Iceland (except, perhaps in and near Reykjavik), you need to be prepared to encounter sheep on the road.

11 August
Sheep are curious. These were checking us out as we returned to the parking lot after a short hike to Kvernufoss.

29 August
Checking us out on our hike through Dimmuborgir.

More sheep as we waited for the ferry at Brjánslækur.

4 September
Icelandic horses are renowned for their sturdiness and five natural gaits. They are small horses (not "ponies") and have many variations in their colors. To preserve both genetics and potential diseases, once a horse is exported, it cannot be returned to Iceland.


Icelandic horses have shaggy manes that cover their eyes.


25 August
A show horse at the Friðheimar tomato farm.

4 September
Most hotels in smaller communities had itinerant cats. They slept where they wanted to and came and went as they pleased. Most were accompanied by notes that explained that they were not strays and liked to be cuddled, but not picked up and carried around.

12 August
Most dogs in Iceland are working dogs. In Iceland they were sheep herders; in Greenland they were sled dogs. This dog came to us as we were admiring Foss á Siðu (waterfall) in south Iceland, and loved to retrieve rocks we threw into the creek.

Tuesday, September 30, 2025

Iceland - 6 - Impossible to Categorize

11-15 August,  24 August - 4 September, 2025

It just didn't fit anywhere else.

1 September

The most famous LGBTQ+ "Rainbow Street" in Iceland is in the town of Seyðisfjörður in the East Fjords. (We simply couldn't squeeze in a visit.) There's also a prominent Rainbow Street in downtown Reykjavik. This obviously not new street painting is in the remote town of Suðereyri, just showing how ubiquitous is the acceptance of the Gay Pride culture in Iceland. You don't get much more remote than Suðereyri at the tip of Súgandafjörður in the West Fjords.

31 August
In Kollafjörður (West Fjords) we even saw a barn roof with rainbow colors.

31 August
There's nothing more Icelandic than a swimming pool - almost always filled with geothermal warm water. This is the swimming pool at Heydalur.

The swimming pool overflows into these man-made "hot pots", mimicking natural hot springs. There was a a "natural hot pot" on the property, but we didn't see it because it required crossing a river on widely-spaced uneven stepping stones.

15 August
Icelanders love golf - rain or shine (mostly rain). This course is on the Reykjanes peninsula near Grindavik.

More golf on the coast near Grindavik.

31 August
We saw several of these picnic tables made from driftwood and wire spools along the coast in Kollafjörður.

Driftwood was historically a major source of timber in Iceland. Kollafjörður was the only place we saw driftwood on the beaches and piled up for future use.

Cairns like this were common along the roads in north Iceland and the West Fjords. This one was along Isafjörðup.

Chains are required on many roads in the winter. This frequently seen sign marked a pull-out for putting on and removing chains. 

Iceland - 5 - Art

11-15 August,  24 August - 4 September, 2025

Public art, folk art, fine art, galleries - it's all there in Iceland.

Safnasafnið - The Icelandic Folk and Outsider Art Museum

30 August
Safnasafnið is a museum featuring folk art, handicrafts (recognizing the significant contribution of women to Icelandic art), and fine art. It's on the east side of Eyjafjörður, near Akureyri. There's too much on display to do justice to the collection in a short blog. Check out the website to see more.

A large wooden structure outside the museum gives an idea of the art to be found within.

This cat may be our favorite item in the collection.

The library has an impressive collection of art books, and several interesting sculptures.

Djúpivogur

27 August
Djúpivogur is both a historic town on Berufjörður in east Iceland and home to one of the more interesting public art displays: The Eggs of Merry Bay" (Eggin í Gleðvik).

34 huge granite eggs are displayed on the road along Djúpivogur's harbor. Each one represents a local bird species.

The eggs are lined up in a long row.


Flateyri Bird Murals

2 September
The town of Flateyri is known for several things: the oldest bookstore in Iceland, a folk culture school, a devastating avalanche, and bird murals. Icelandic-American artist Jean Larson has painted 13 murals of local birds on buildings around Flateyri. While we didn't take time to find all 13, we enjoyed the ones we did see.

Two murals can be seen from one spot. Whooper Swan (left) and Golden Plover (right).

Eurasian Wren

Other artists have also started to paint murals in Flateyri. I liked this garden painting on a garage wall.


Petra's Stone Collection

27 August
It's difficult to categorize this popular tourist attraction in Stöðvarfjörður. Is it art? Is it geology?

It is an amazing collection of 70 years work, displayed in the collector's (Petra Sveinsdóttir) house and garden. It takes a small army of volunteers to keep up the site.

Most of the collection is displayed on shelves in the garden.

There are thousands of brightly colored rocks and minerals on display. It's difficult to comprehend that all of these stones were collected in Iceland - most of the rocks we saw were shades of gray.

A rainbow of rocks and crystals.

Is It Art?

4 September
These cracks in a concrete bench along the beach in Ytri Tunga sure look like Icelandic runes, even though we're pretty sure they are just random cracks.