Thimphu Miscellany

Tuesday, 14 November 2017

We went to many places in Thimphu today. Rather than make each stop a separate post, here is a collection of our travels.

National Memorial Stupa

The stupa was highly decorated today, as it was the conclusion of a special prayer session. The site was packed with worshipers.

A closer look at the top of the stupa.

Off to the side is a pavilion filled with large prayer wheels.

Votive butter lamps are in a glass-enclosed structure.

Motithang Takin Preserve

The takin, the Bhutan national animal, is a hoofed mammal unique to Bhutan. The takin preserve is trying to re-establish takins throughout their historic range.

National Library

The National Library is largely a repository of important Buddhist texts rather than a comprehensive library. It also contains a huge book that when printed in 2003 was the world's largest book. (It has since lost this title.)

A Buddhist altar in the National Library.

Other Places

The National Post Office includes a small museum.

Dragons ("Druk") are important in Bhutan and grace the sides and roof corners of many buildings.

In the evening, we attended an exhibition of traditional folk and festival dances.

The Thimphu Dzong at night.

Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory

Tuesday, 14 November 2017

Of course, you know that if we visit a paper factory, it has to have its own post.

This paper factory is the "upstream" part of our previous paper factory tour in Kathmandu. Here, the Daphne bark is pulped, then turned into handsheets for further processing (e.g. printing). It's interesting that in conventional paper-making, the wood is used for fiber, and the bark is used for fuel, while in the Himalayas, the bark is the fiber source, and the wood is consumed for fuel.

The bark is first soaked overnight, then cooked (not shown).

The cooked pulp.

A beater mashes and refines the fibers.

The final pulp before papermaking.

Making a handsheet by dipping a bamboo mat/screen into diluted pulp.

Removing the sheet from the frame.

Separating the handsheet from the bamboo screen.

Stacks of new handsheets.

Most of the water is pressed out of the handsheets.

The final step is to dry the paper sheets on large heated metal plates.

A wasp nest outside the factory is made from a different kind of paper! I loved the swirls.

Traditional Arts

Tuesday, 14 November 2017

This morning we visited the National Institute for Zorig Chusum (Thirteen Traditional Arts). We got an opportunity to see the young-adult apprentices learning and practicing their craft. (And, of course, the opportunity to purchase items.)

Woodcarving.

Sewing of traditional fabric items, including door hangings and boots.

Metalworking.

Painting.

Embroidery.

Sculpture (clay).

The classroom walls had lots of diagrams such as this one that precisely proscribes the dimensions of traditional figures. In this case, the Buddha's head.

Later on, we visited the National Textile Museum (no photos allowed), which has a weaving showroom where photos are allowed.

Handloom weaving.

Traditional Bhutanese weaving is a complex skill, with some specialized wrapping techniques that are unique to Bhutan.

Thimphu

Monday, 13 November 2017

Thimphu is the capital of Bhutan. This afternoon we toured the downtown and governmental areas.

Despite a fair amount of traffic, Thimphu has chosen not to have traffic lights. Instead, major intersections have traffic officers in kiosks to direct traffic.

Dogs were everywhere. According to the Bhutanese, the dogs sleep all day and bark all night.

Vegetables, especially chilis, for sale on the main street.

The craft stalls along Norzin Lam, the street we walked to get to the fortress. The walls are woven matts over a wooden frame.

The Thimphu Fortress (officially Trashi Chhoe Dzong) holds both the national government offices and the main Buddhist monastery for Bhutan. This building is the main prayer hall. Because it was a weekday, we had to wait until after business hours (4:30 PM) to enter the grounds.

Another view of the Dzong.

Iron Chain Bridge & Chilis

Monday, 13 November 2017

The trip from the Paro airport to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan) is about 50 km (30 miles) over a narrow, but good quality road. (The roads in Bhutan are much better than those in Nepal.)

Red chili peppers are a vegetable in Bhutan. The national dish, served at every meal, is "chili-and-cheese", which is delicious, but way too spicy-hot for me to enjoy. In the fall, most families dry copious quantities of red chilis on their roof to have a good supply through the winter.

Between Paro and Chhuzom is an example of an "iron chain bridge", reconstructed on the site of one of the original iron chain suspension bridges built by the Tibetan engineer Thangtong Gyalpo in the 15th century. He is revered as a saint, the Iron Chain Lama.

The heavy iron chains form the base support for the bridge. As with all bridges in Bhutan, it is full of prayer flags.

Inside the gate house: the iron chains go through the structure and are secured on the outside. Inside are "cupcake stupas" placed by individuals for good fortune.

Next to the Iron Chain Bridge is a more conventional suspension bridge that affords access to the other side of the river where there is a 600-year-old temple.

Flying Past the Himalayas

Monday, 13 November 2017

The flight from Kathmandu, Nepal, to Paro, Bhutan, has to be one of the more spectacular flights in the world. I got lucky and got a window seat on the left (north) side, and so had a view of the Great Himalayas the entire trip.

Himalayas west of Mt Everest

Mt Everest comes into view.

Mt Everest

Mt Everest is the high peak to the left of center.

East of Mt Everest

Landing in Paro is "interesting". This narrow valley is the only location in Bhutan capable of landing a jet, and all international flights land here. The approach follows the winding valley, and only a handful of pilots are certified for this airport. I would not want to come here in anything less than perfect weather!

Approaching Paro.

The view down the runway in Paro.

Nagarkot

Sunday, 12 November 2017

The only reason to go to Nagarkot is to view the mountains -- and maybe do some short hikes.

On the terrace at a nearby hotel.

Our intrepid group.

Mountain views.

Prayer flags along the top of a ridge.

We took an afternoon hike and got up even higher than we had been on our short morning hike.

That looks COLD!

A final panoramic view from Nagarkot.