South Georgia - Fortuna Bay, Stromness, Grytviken

Saturday, 29 February 2020

We continued our visits to the north side of South Georgia.

Long Hike

About 50 people chose to do the strenuous 4 1/2 mile hike over the 400 m (1300 ft) high ridge between Fortuna Bay and Stromness that followed the final leg of Shackleton's overland journey from Fortuna Bay to Stromness. Lon joined this group, while I opted for a less rigorous hike from Stromness to the Shackleton waterfall.

Here the hikers are leaving the beach at Fortuna Bay. These are the "orange penguins" making their way up a tussock-filled ravine.

A closer look at the hikers. Note the penguins and fur seals on the beach.

Along the ridge top.

Group at first sight of Stromness Bay. [Lindblad Expeditions photo]

Lon with a view down Shackleton Valley to Stromness. The bay looks deceptively close, it's probably close to 2 1/2 miles to the beach.

The "orange penguins" make their way down the slope to the base of the Shackleton Waterfall. From here it is about 1 1/2 miles to Stromness, where Shackleton was able to summon help to rescue his men on the other side of South Georgia and on Elephant Island.

Stromness

Stromness is an abandoned whaling station that has not been cleaned up and is off-limits to visitors because of the hazardous materials and collapsing structures. The beach and valley were filled with Antarctic fur seals, mostly juveniles.

Looking out across Stromness Bay to the Scotia Sea.

An elephant seal was resting in the shallow water just off the beach. This photo gives a good feel for just how huge these creatures are, contrasting with the smaller Antarctic fur seals playing the water around it.

A young fur seal still taking advantage of milk from mom.

Juvenile fur seals playing in a shallow stream.

A totally exhausted young blonde fur seal.

The Shackleton waterfall at the end of Shackleton Valley, about a mile an a half inland from the beach.

Grytviken

Grytviken is the only remaining permanent settlement on South Georgia, although it's only occupied during the summer months.

Grytviken was the first, and largest, whaling station on South Georgia. These tanks were used to render oil from whale parts and store the resulting oil. The factory part is open only to guided tours, but the town section has been turned into a museum.

The town had a small church, but it was mostly used as a community center. The back left addition was the town library.

Shackleton's grave in the cemetery at Grytviken. Frank Wild's grave is adjacent. [Lindblad Expeditions photo]